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DIY
Wash Life Mixer List
14
Mar
Mar
Below is a compiled list of all the parts needed to build the Wash Life Mixer that John Lange uses. If you have questions please leave them in the comments on this post that way everyone can enjoy the knowledge!
CROSS T (threaded) ¾
½ NPT x 3/4 Hose ID Black HDPE Elbow (scroll down to find this option, and select 2)
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23256&catid=465
½ NPT x 3/8 Hose ID Black HDPE Elbow (scroll down to find this option, and select 1)
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23256&catid=465
90-degree ¾ female (select 2 of them, the ¾ option)
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23896&catid=708
¾ x Short Polypropylene Pipe Nipple (make sure you select ¾, and get 2 of them)
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23712&catid=708
¾ NPT x ½ NPT Black HDPE Reducer Nipple (scroll down to find this option, select 3)
¾ barb x ¾ male thread (1x)
Metering Valve options
GF Signet metering valves
These are the valves you may have seen on more expensive proportioner systems such as the “pro-portioner” invented by Tim Aselton is sold for over $1,000! Seen here: https://www.powerwashstore.com/P/2816/PRO-PORTIONER5409 These valves are $111 each. Although you are sacrificing the fancy metal box, you may be happier with fancier, more precise dials that these valves come with. You can get them here:
The Pentair chlorine valve
The Pentair chlorine valve is a much cheaper option. At $28 a piece you can’t beat it! They work great, and they get the job done. No more batch mixing. I have not tried the GF metering valves, so I cannot compare the two, all I know is I am very happy with the Pentair valves.
Check Valves
Regardless of what option you choose, you will need to order some check valves. I like check valves, they basically keep fluids from back tracking once they pass through. You will put a check valve after each metering valve, so you need a minimum of 3. I also went a step further, and put them at the end of my drop stick for water and SH. I did this so that when I pull my drop stick from my SH tank, and drop it into the WATER tank, there is little to no cross contamination. If I did not have a check valve at the end of my drop stick, bleach could siphon back into my water tank. It would be such a small amount that it would have little to no effect on my fresh water tank. But still, I like to avoid it if possible. Also check valves can break or malfunction. It is nice to have a couple extra in the case that it happens. I would suggest ordering 5-6 check valves.
Drop Sticks
If you need a drop sticks, they can be ordered here. You will only need 2 (one for water, one for SH). You may be able to build your own for cheaper, but not by much. The drop sticks come with their own check valve, a nice mesh screen, and all the fittings you need. I gladly would pay the $29. You can always make them longer if you need to. Also the barb fitting that comes with the drop stick is not going to be the correct size if you choose ¾ inlet on your WASH LIFE MIXER. You will just have to pick up the appropriate size barb so that the inlet on your mixer and the barb on the drop stick match.
I hope this helps the guys who would rather tackle this themselves!
If you haven’t joined the Facebook group or follow me on YouTube, you are missing out!
Team Wash life for the Win, this is exactly what I was looking for
So I am ordering the washlifemixer parts now, just not sure what inlet barbs to get for the drop sticks instead of the 1/2s